Turning a hard to access nut?Should a washer go on nut side, or the bolt side?How do I tighten/loosen this recessed nut and bolt?Why my gas stove delays in turning on?Over-tightened nut, bolt broken?Fire place and stove turning themselves offWhy does my gas stove smell like burnt gas when turning on the oven and burnersAccess Panel to gas stove shutoff valve on other side of wall in laundry room to code?How to identify a nutWhy are my oven knobs turning pink?How to adjust 'frozen' venturi tube in stove?
Turning a hard to access nut?
Deletion of copy-ctor & copy-assignment - public, private or protected?
How do hiring committees for research positions view getting "scooped"?
What (if any) is the reason to buy in small local stores?
Comment Box for Substitution Method of Integrals
Do I need to be arrogant to get ahead?
Print a physical multiplication table
Is there a term for accumulated dirt on the outside of your hands and feet?
Why didn't Héctor fade away after this character died in the movie Coco?
Does .bashrc contain syntax errors?
Generic TVP tradeoffs?
How can an organ that provides biological immortality be unable to regenerate?
Maths symbols and unicode-math input inside siunitx commands
Using Past-Perfect interchangeably with the Past Continuous
What are substitutions for coconut in curry?
Brake pads destroying wheels
Is there a hypothetical scenario that would make Earth uninhabitable for humans, but not for (the majority of) other animals?
Is there a creature that is resistant or immune to non-magical damage other than bludgeoning, slashing, and piercing?
Why is there so much iron?
Should I use acronyms in dialogues before telling the readers what it stands for in fiction?
Asserting that Atheism and Theism are both faith based positions
Why is indicated airspeed rather than ground speed used during the takeoff roll?
Is honey really a supersaturated solution? Does heating to un-crystalize redissolve it or melt it?
Have the tides ever turned twice on any open problem?
Turning a hard to access nut?
Should a washer go on nut side, or the bolt side?How do I tighten/loosen this recessed nut and bolt?Why my gas stove delays in turning on?Over-tightened nut, bolt broken?Fire place and stove turning themselves offWhy does my gas stove smell like burnt gas when turning on the oven and burnersAccess Panel to gas stove shutoff valve on other side of wall in laundry room to code?How to identify a nutWhy are my oven knobs turning pink?How to adjust 'frozen' venturi tube in stove?
Working on the propane conversion of my gas stove. One of the orifices to be changed is in a very hard to access location - shown in the photo. The orifice is the "nut" I'm referring to, which you can fit a wrench onto.
Although it is possible to get a wrench on it there is a very limited range of motion due to surrounding apparatus. I've tried to mark this in the photo with the red lines. The very short arc that the wrench can turn in means that it never gets a 'bite' on the orifice / nut and I can't even loosen it.
It would be much more work to disassemble the other parts in this area, so I'm hoping for a solution to remove and then reinstall just the orifice part. Maybe there's a specialty type of wrench... or something else I'm not thinking of.
Thanks
gas stove bolts wrench orifice
add a comment |
Working on the propane conversion of my gas stove. One of the orifices to be changed is in a very hard to access location - shown in the photo. The orifice is the "nut" I'm referring to, which you can fit a wrench onto.
Although it is possible to get a wrench on it there is a very limited range of motion due to surrounding apparatus. I've tried to mark this in the photo with the red lines. The very short arc that the wrench can turn in means that it never gets a 'bite' on the orifice / nut and I can't even loosen it.
It would be much more work to disassemble the other parts in this area, so I'm hoping for a solution to remove and then reinstall just the orifice part. Maybe there's a specialty type of wrench... or something else I'm not thinking of.
Thanks
gas stove bolts wrench orifice
2
Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.
– UnhandledExcepSean
13 hours ago
add a comment |
Working on the propane conversion of my gas stove. One of the orifices to be changed is in a very hard to access location - shown in the photo. The orifice is the "nut" I'm referring to, which you can fit a wrench onto.
Although it is possible to get a wrench on it there is a very limited range of motion due to surrounding apparatus. I've tried to mark this in the photo with the red lines. The very short arc that the wrench can turn in means that it never gets a 'bite' on the orifice / nut and I can't even loosen it.
It would be much more work to disassemble the other parts in this area, so I'm hoping for a solution to remove and then reinstall just the orifice part. Maybe there's a specialty type of wrench... or something else I'm not thinking of.
Thanks
gas stove bolts wrench orifice
Working on the propane conversion of my gas stove. One of the orifices to be changed is in a very hard to access location - shown in the photo. The orifice is the "nut" I'm referring to, which you can fit a wrench onto.
Although it is possible to get a wrench on it there is a very limited range of motion due to surrounding apparatus. I've tried to mark this in the photo with the red lines. The very short arc that the wrench can turn in means that it never gets a 'bite' on the orifice / nut and I can't even loosen it.
It would be much more work to disassemble the other parts in this area, so I'm hoping for a solution to remove and then reinstall just the orifice part. Maybe there's a specialty type of wrench... or something else I'm not thinking of.
Thanks
gas stove bolts wrench orifice
gas stove bolts wrench orifice
asked 13 hours ago
DaveInCazDaveInCaz
1,259730
1,259730
2
Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.
– UnhandledExcepSean
13 hours ago
add a comment |
2
Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.
– UnhandledExcepSean
13 hours ago
2
2
Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.
– UnhandledExcepSean
13 hours ago
Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.
– UnhandledExcepSean
13 hours ago
add a comment |
9 Answers
9
active
oldest
votes
What you may be overlooking, or what may not be present on your wrench, is the the open wrench is not square to the shaft. It is canted by 1/24 of a circle (15 degrees).
That means you only need a 30 degree arc of motion, not a 60 degree arc. When you run out of travel, remove the wrench, flip it over, raise it 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees), and it will fit on the next flat.
If your range of motion is being compromised by the wrench being all loosy-goosey on the nut (that's a technical term), then you have the wrong size wrench. In particular, watch out for English vs. Metric. The only wrench sizes that match up are 3/4=19mm, all others will be sloppy.
An adjustable wrench (commonly called a 'monkey wrench', inaccurately) is one answer, but you have to get that tight and might have to retighten on every turn.
It certainly looks like you have more than 30 degrees of motion there (though perhaps not quite 60 degrees). If you are tighter than 30 degrees, first stop and think about how the manufacturer intended this thing to be serviced, because not least, they had to build it and they certainly didn't want their factory workers spending 10 minutes fastening this one thing. If the range of motion is simply impossible, then you need the extreme options offered by others, or perhaps a "stubby" (short length) wrench that allows you to work inside the obstructions...
add a comment |
A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00
add a comment |
An open end Ratchet wrench is likely the best tool for this job.
Something like this:
add a comment |
The best tool I have found for the type of application you are working with is a 12-point split-box wrench. These are also available in a 6-point design.
(Picture Source: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14256/css/Types-and-Uses-Continued-156.htm)
The split end lets the wrench get onto a fitting even when a tubing is inline. The box construction also gets better grip on the fitting than trying to use a conventional open ended flat sided wrench. The 12-point design and ability to flip the wrench over if needed from stroke to stroke makes this the tool of choice if the working angle to the fitting is small.
add a comment |
One solution I have is a set of wrenches with angled heads - you can see one end has a greater angle than the other, very handy in many situations :
Mind you, the set cost me quite a bit... But that was a long time ago.
I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.
– Harper
10 hours ago
If you don't have them to use then you won't know...
– Solar Mike
10 hours ago
Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?
– Harper
10 hours ago
add a comment |
Crows foot attached to a universal join on the end of a long socket drive extension and a socket rachet wrench.
New contributor
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. We usually prefer answers that are at least one complete sentence. Plus, others have already made these suggestions. Please take our tour to find out how better to contribute here.
– Daniel Griscom
3 hours ago
add a comment |
EDIT this won't work because in this instance the fastener is obstructed by a pipe. Leaving for completeness.
There appears to be plenty of width to the slot. How about a socket with a long extension bar and a universal joint?
They add slop but that's no more than annoying. You'd require a deep socket to go over any bolt too.
3
But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.
– UnhandledExcepSean
8 hours ago
@UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.
– Criggie
3 hours ago
add a comment |
Try an open-end ratcheting wrench. Here's a video showing how they work at about 30 seconds into it; manufacturer demo and not intended as an endorsement:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWBlQdporxE
add a comment |
I'm a gas fitter and service tech. My bag has the tools to do the job. Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. I'd get a 12 point
Amazon
After all, this is the tool made for this job
If that didn't work it's the 6" or 8" Knipex Cobra
Home Depot
These are amazing and are designed to avoid stripping and marring.
add a comment |
Your Answer
StackExchange.ready(function()
var channelOptions =
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "73"
;
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);
StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
createEditor();
);
else
createEditor();
);
function createEditor()
StackExchange.prepareEditor(
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader:
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
,
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
);
);
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f159974%2fturning-a-hard-to-access-nut%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
9 Answers
9
active
oldest
votes
9 Answers
9
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
What you may be overlooking, or what may not be present on your wrench, is the the open wrench is not square to the shaft. It is canted by 1/24 of a circle (15 degrees).
That means you only need a 30 degree arc of motion, not a 60 degree arc. When you run out of travel, remove the wrench, flip it over, raise it 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees), and it will fit on the next flat.
If your range of motion is being compromised by the wrench being all loosy-goosey on the nut (that's a technical term), then you have the wrong size wrench. In particular, watch out for English vs. Metric. The only wrench sizes that match up are 3/4=19mm, all others will be sloppy.
An adjustable wrench (commonly called a 'monkey wrench', inaccurately) is one answer, but you have to get that tight and might have to retighten on every turn.
It certainly looks like you have more than 30 degrees of motion there (though perhaps not quite 60 degrees). If you are tighter than 30 degrees, first stop and think about how the manufacturer intended this thing to be serviced, because not least, they had to build it and they certainly didn't want their factory workers spending 10 minutes fastening this one thing. If the range of motion is simply impossible, then you need the extreme options offered by others, or perhaps a "stubby" (short length) wrench that allows you to work inside the obstructions...
add a comment |
What you may be overlooking, or what may not be present on your wrench, is the the open wrench is not square to the shaft. It is canted by 1/24 of a circle (15 degrees).
That means you only need a 30 degree arc of motion, not a 60 degree arc. When you run out of travel, remove the wrench, flip it over, raise it 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees), and it will fit on the next flat.
If your range of motion is being compromised by the wrench being all loosy-goosey on the nut (that's a technical term), then you have the wrong size wrench. In particular, watch out for English vs. Metric. The only wrench sizes that match up are 3/4=19mm, all others will be sloppy.
An adjustable wrench (commonly called a 'monkey wrench', inaccurately) is one answer, but you have to get that tight and might have to retighten on every turn.
It certainly looks like you have more than 30 degrees of motion there (though perhaps not quite 60 degrees). If you are tighter than 30 degrees, first stop and think about how the manufacturer intended this thing to be serviced, because not least, they had to build it and they certainly didn't want their factory workers spending 10 minutes fastening this one thing. If the range of motion is simply impossible, then you need the extreme options offered by others, or perhaps a "stubby" (short length) wrench that allows you to work inside the obstructions...
add a comment |
What you may be overlooking, or what may not be present on your wrench, is the the open wrench is not square to the shaft. It is canted by 1/24 of a circle (15 degrees).
That means you only need a 30 degree arc of motion, not a 60 degree arc. When you run out of travel, remove the wrench, flip it over, raise it 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees), and it will fit on the next flat.
If your range of motion is being compromised by the wrench being all loosy-goosey on the nut (that's a technical term), then you have the wrong size wrench. In particular, watch out for English vs. Metric. The only wrench sizes that match up are 3/4=19mm, all others will be sloppy.
An adjustable wrench (commonly called a 'monkey wrench', inaccurately) is one answer, but you have to get that tight and might have to retighten on every turn.
It certainly looks like you have more than 30 degrees of motion there (though perhaps not quite 60 degrees). If you are tighter than 30 degrees, first stop and think about how the manufacturer intended this thing to be serviced, because not least, they had to build it and they certainly didn't want their factory workers spending 10 minutes fastening this one thing. If the range of motion is simply impossible, then you need the extreme options offered by others, or perhaps a "stubby" (short length) wrench that allows you to work inside the obstructions...
What you may be overlooking, or what may not be present on your wrench, is the the open wrench is not square to the shaft. It is canted by 1/24 of a circle (15 degrees).
That means you only need a 30 degree arc of motion, not a 60 degree arc. When you run out of travel, remove the wrench, flip it over, raise it 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees), and it will fit on the next flat.
If your range of motion is being compromised by the wrench being all loosy-goosey on the nut (that's a technical term), then you have the wrong size wrench. In particular, watch out for English vs. Metric. The only wrench sizes that match up are 3/4=19mm, all others will be sloppy.
An adjustable wrench (commonly called a 'monkey wrench', inaccurately) is one answer, but you have to get that tight and might have to retighten on every turn.
It certainly looks like you have more than 30 degrees of motion there (though perhaps not quite 60 degrees). If you are tighter than 30 degrees, first stop and think about how the manufacturer intended this thing to be serviced, because not least, they had to build it and they certainly didn't want their factory workers spending 10 minutes fastening this one thing. If the range of motion is simply impossible, then you need the extreme options offered by others, or perhaps a "stubby" (short length) wrench that allows you to work inside the obstructions...
edited 10 hours ago
answered 10 hours ago
HarperHarper
73.7k448148
73.7k448148
add a comment |
add a comment |
A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00
add a comment |
A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00
add a comment |
A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00
A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00
edited 7 hours ago
answered 11 hours ago
Jerry_ContraryJerry_Contrary
2,782319
2,782319
add a comment |
add a comment |
An open end Ratchet wrench is likely the best tool for this job.
Something like this:
add a comment |
An open end Ratchet wrench is likely the best tool for this job.
Something like this:
add a comment |
An open end Ratchet wrench is likely the best tool for this job.
Something like this:
An open end Ratchet wrench is likely the best tool for this job.
Something like this:
edited 8 hours ago
answered 13 hours ago
UnhandledExcepSeanUnhandledExcepSean
1,49631624
1,49631624
add a comment |
add a comment |
The best tool I have found for the type of application you are working with is a 12-point split-box wrench. These are also available in a 6-point design.
(Picture Source: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14256/css/Types-and-Uses-Continued-156.htm)
The split end lets the wrench get onto a fitting even when a tubing is inline. The box construction also gets better grip on the fitting than trying to use a conventional open ended flat sided wrench. The 12-point design and ability to flip the wrench over if needed from stroke to stroke makes this the tool of choice if the working angle to the fitting is small.
add a comment |
The best tool I have found for the type of application you are working with is a 12-point split-box wrench. These are also available in a 6-point design.
(Picture Source: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14256/css/Types-and-Uses-Continued-156.htm)
The split end lets the wrench get onto a fitting even when a tubing is inline. The box construction also gets better grip on the fitting than trying to use a conventional open ended flat sided wrench. The 12-point design and ability to flip the wrench over if needed from stroke to stroke makes this the tool of choice if the working angle to the fitting is small.
add a comment |
The best tool I have found for the type of application you are working with is a 12-point split-box wrench. These are also available in a 6-point design.
(Picture Source: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14256/css/Types-and-Uses-Continued-156.htm)
The split end lets the wrench get onto a fitting even when a tubing is inline. The box construction also gets better grip on the fitting than trying to use a conventional open ended flat sided wrench. The 12-point design and ability to flip the wrench over if needed from stroke to stroke makes this the tool of choice if the working angle to the fitting is small.
The best tool I have found for the type of application you are working with is a 12-point split-box wrench. These are also available in a 6-point design.
(Picture Source: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14256/css/Types-and-Uses-Continued-156.htm)
The split end lets the wrench get onto a fitting even when a tubing is inline. The box construction also gets better grip on the fitting than trying to use a conventional open ended flat sided wrench. The 12-point design and ability to flip the wrench over if needed from stroke to stroke makes this the tool of choice if the working angle to the fitting is small.
answered 3 hours ago
Michael Karas♦Michael Karas
44.7k53486
44.7k53486
add a comment |
add a comment |
One solution I have is a set of wrenches with angled heads - you can see one end has a greater angle than the other, very handy in many situations :
Mind you, the set cost me quite a bit... But that was a long time ago.
I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.
– Harper
10 hours ago
If you don't have them to use then you won't know...
– Solar Mike
10 hours ago
Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?
– Harper
10 hours ago
add a comment |
One solution I have is a set of wrenches with angled heads - you can see one end has a greater angle than the other, very handy in many situations :
Mind you, the set cost me quite a bit... But that was a long time ago.
I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.
– Harper
10 hours ago
If you don't have them to use then you won't know...
– Solar Mike
10 hours ago
Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?
– Harper
10 hours ago
add a comment |
One solution I have is a set of wrenches with angled heads - you can see one end has a greater angle than the other, very handy in many situations :
Mind you, the set cost me quite a bit... But that was a long time ago.
One solution I have is a set of wrenches with angled heads - you can see one end has a greater angle than the other, very handy in many situations :
Mind you, the set cost me quite a bit... But that was a long time ago.
answered 13 hours ago
Solar MikeSolar Mike
4467
4467
I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.
– Harper
10 hours ago
If you don't have them to use then you won't know...
– Solar Mike
10 hours ago
Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?
– Harper
10 hours ago
add a comment |
I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.
– Harper
10 hours ago
If you don't have them to use then you won't know...
– Solar Mike
10 hours ago
Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?
– Harper
10 hours ago
I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.
– Harper
10 hours ago
I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.
– Harper
10 hours ago
If you don't have them to use then you won't know...
– Solar Mike
10 hours ago
If you don't have them to use then you won't know...
– Solar Mike
10 hours ago
Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?
– Harper
10 hours ago
Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?
– Harper
10 hours ago
add a comment |
Crows foot attached to a universal join on the end of a long socket drive extension and a socket rachet wrench.
New contributor
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. We usually prefer answers that are at least one complete sentence. Plus, others have already made these suggestions. Please take our tour to find out how better to contribute here.
– Daniel Griscom
3 hours ago
add a comment |
Crows foot attached to a universal join on the end of a long socket drive extension and a socket rachet wrench.
New contributor
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. We usually prefer answers that are at least one complete sentence. Plus, others have already made these suggestions. Please take our tour to find out how better to contribute here.
– Daniel Griscom
3 hours ago
add a comment |
Crows foot attached to a universal join on the end of a long socket drive extension and a socket rachet wrench.
New contributor
Crows foot attached to a universal join on the end of a long socket drive extension and a socket rachet wrench.
New contributor
New contributor
answered 4 hours ago
MikeMike
1
1
New contributor
New contributor
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. We usually prefer answers that are at least one complete sentence. Plus, others have already made these suggestions. Please take our tour to find out how better to contribute here.
– Daniel Griscom
3 hours ago
add a comment |
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. We usually prefer answers that are at least one complete sentence. Plus, others have already made these suggestions. Please take our tour to find out how better to contribute here.
– Daniel Griscom
3 hours ago
1
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. We usually prefer answers that are at least one complete sentence. Plus, others have already made these suggestions. Please take our tour to find out how better to contribute here.
– Daniel Griscom
3 hours ago
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. We usually prefer answers that are at least one complete sentence. Plus, others have already made these suggestions. Please take our tour to find out how better to contribute here.
– Daniel Griscom
3 hours ago
add a comment |
EDIT this won't work because in this instance the fastener is obstructed by a pipe. Leaving for completeness.
There appears to be plenty of width to the slot. How about a socket with a long extension bar and a universal joint?
They add slop but that's no more than annoying. You'd require a deep socket to go over any bolt too.
3
But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.
– UnhandledExcepSean
8 hours ago
@UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.
– Criggie
3 hours ago
add a comment |
EDIT this won't work because in this instance the fastener is obstructed by a pipe. Leaving for completeness.
There appears to be plenty of width to the slot. How about a socket with a long extension bar and a universal joint?
They add slop but that's no more than annoying. You'd require a deep socket to go over any bolt too.
3
But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.
– UnhandledExcepSean
8 hours ago
@UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.
– Criggie
3 hours ago
add a comment |
EDIT this won't work because in this instance the fastener is obstructed by a pipe. Leaving for completeness.
There appears to be plenty of width to the slot. How about a socket with a long extension bar and a universal joint?
They add slop but that's no more than annoying. You'd require a deep socket to go over any bolt too.
EDIT this won't work because in this instance the fastener is obstructed by a pipe. Leaving for completeness.
There appears to be plenty of width to the slot. How about a socket with a long extension bar and a universal joint?
They add slop but that's no more than annoying. You'd require a deep socket to go over any bolt too.
edited 3 hours ago
answered 8 hours ago
CriggieCriggie
1,063518
1,063518
3
But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.
– UnhandledExcepSean
8 hours ago
@UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.
– Criggie
3 hours ago
add a comment |
3
But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.
– UnhandledExcepSean
8 hours ago
@UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.
– Criggie
3 hours ago
3
3
But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.
– UnhandledExcepSean
8 hours ago
But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.
– UnhandledExcepSean
8 hours ago
@UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.
– Criggie
3 hours ago
@UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.
– Criggie
3 hours ago
add a comment |
Try an open-end ratcheting wrench. Here's a video showing how they work at about 30 seconds into it; manufacturer demo and not intended as an endorsement:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWBlQdporxE
add a comment |
Try an open-end ratcheting wrench. Here's a video showing how they work at about 30 seconds into it; manufacturer demo and not intended as an endorsement:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWBlQdporxE
add a comment |
Try an open-end ratcheting wrench. Here's a video showing how they work at about 30 seconds into it; manufacturer demo and not intended as an endorsement:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWBlQdporxE
Try an open-end ratcheting wrench. Here's a video showing how they work at about 30 seconds into it; manufacturer demo and not intended as an endorsement:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWBlQdporxE
answered 1 hour ago
R..R..
4092415
4092415
add a comment |
add a comment |
I'm a gas fitter and service tech. My bag has the tools to do the job. Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. I'd get a 12 point
Amazon
After all, this is the tool made for this job
If that didn't work it's the 6" or 8" Knipex Cobra
Home Depot
These are amazing and are designed to avoid stripping and marring.
add a comment |
I'm a gas fitter and service tech. My bag has the tools to do the job. Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. I'd get a 12 point
Amazon
After all, this is the tool made for this job
If that didn't work it's the 6" or 8" Knipex Cobra
Home Depot
These are amazing and are designed to avoid stripping and marring.
add a comment |
I'm a gas fitter and service tech. My bag has the tools to do the job. Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. I'd get a 12 point
Amazon
After all, this is the tool made for this job
If that didn't work it's the 6" or 8" Knipex Cobra
Home Depot
These are amazing and are designed to avoid stripping and marring.
I'm a gas fitter and service tech. My bag has the tools to do the job. Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. I'd get a 12 point
Amazon
After all, this is the tool made for this job
If that didn't work it's the 6" or 8" Knipex Cobra
Home Depot
These are amazing and are designed to avoid stripping and marring.
answered 1 hour ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,629223
3,629223
add a comment |
add a comment |
Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f159974%2fturning-a-hard-to-access-nut%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
2
Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.
– UnhandledExcepSean
13 hours ago